Morocco is not a country you simply visit. It is a country that you need to explore, to discover it’s secrets!. I have been travelling here for thirty years, initially sourcing new products and producers for my fair trade business One World is Enough, later for the pure pleasure of a place that continues to surprise me. It is a country of extraordinary contrasts: the ancient and the modern, the devout and the pragmatic, the extraordinarily hospitable and the determinedly commercial. Knowing a few things before you arrive makes all the difference.

What follows is not a guide to sights — there are plenty of those. It is the practical knowledge that I wish someone had given me on my first visit: the things that make the difference between a journey that goes smoothly and one that doesn’t.

When to Go

Morocco is a large and geographically varied country, and the best time to visit depends significantly on where you’re going. As a general rule, spring and autumn are the ideal seasons for most of the country — and for most travellers, these will be the right windows.

Spring: March to May

This is, in my view, the finest time to visit. The Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts are warm without being hot, the interior cities — Fez, Meknes, Marrakesh — are comfortable for walking, and the southern landscapes and the High Atlas are at their most beautiful, with wildflowers in the valleys and snow still visible on the higher peaks. The souks are busy but not overwhelmed. Ramadan sometimes falls in this window (the dates shift each year): see the Ramadan note below.

Autumn: September to November

A close second. Temperatures are dropping from summer’s intensity, the light in the medinas is extraordinary in October, and the tourist crowds have thinned. An excellent time for the south — the Draa Valley, the Dades Gorge, the pre-Saharan landscapes — which are still warm without being brutal.

Winter: December to February

The coast — Essaouira, Agadir, the Atlantic towns — remains mild and often sunny. Marrakesh and Fez can be cold at night, particularly in January. The Sahara and the deep south are at their most comfortable for desert travel. Snow is possible in the Atlas passes.

Summer: June to August

Interior cities can be genuinely punishing — Marrakesh in July reaches 40 degrees. The coast is cooler and very popular with Moroccan and European families alike. If you must travel in summer, go coastal or go south before the heat peaks.

Ramadan

Ramadan requires some adjustment but is not, in my experience, the obstacle some travellers fear. Many restaurants remain open to tourists; almost all riads will provide breakfast regardless. The medinas have a particular atmosphere at sunset — the breaking of the fast is a genuine communal event — and the evenings come alive in ways they do not at other times. Be respectful: avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight hours. The month ends with Eid al-Fitr, when many businesses close for several days.

Visas and Entry

For UK, US, Australian, New Zealand, Canadians & EU nationals, Morocco currently requires no visa for stays of up to 90 days. Your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond your intended departure date. Entry is generally smooth; you will fill in a landing card on the plane and present it at passport control along with your accommodation address.

• A few things to know at the border:
• Always have your first night’s accommodation address to hand — a booking confirmation on your phone is sufficient
• The 90-day limit is enforced; overstaying creates serious difficulties
• If entering by land from Spain (Ceuta or Melilla), expect longer queues and more thorough checks — build in time
• The ferry crossing from Tarifa to Tangier Med takes around 35 minutes; Tangier Ville port is closer to the city centre but has fewer ferry services

Visa requirements do change. Check the Moroccan embassy website or the FCDO travel pages before departure, particularly if you are not a UK or EU national.

Money

The currency is the Moroccan dirham (MAD). At the time of writing, the exchange rate hovers around 13–14 dirhams to the pound, though you should check this before travel. Morocco operates a managed exchange rate, which means the dirham is relatively stable.

Cash vs. Card

Morocco is still substantially a cash economy, particularly away from the big cities, in the medinas, souks, and smaller establishments. Cards are accepted at international hotels, upmarket restaurants, and larger shops in the new towns (villes nouvelles), but for the day-to-day business of navigating a medina — buying food, paying for taxis, tipping guides, visiting hammams — you will need dirhams in your pocket.

If you do wish to pay for your accomodation be aware that you will often be charged a surcharge of 3 – 5% to cover local bank charges.   If you are asked if you wish to pay in local or your home currency, always say local currency, as invariably your bank at homes conversion rate will be better than the Moroccan bank rate

Also be aware of bank charges at home.  I would urge you to open a travelling bank account with a challenger bank such as Monzo, Starling, Chase or Revolut in the UK, than do not charge you for using your card abroad.  Traditional banks will usually charge you a fixed charge plus a percentage for making a card payment abroad.

ATMs

ATMs are widely available in all cities and most larger towns. The main Moroccan banks — Attijariwafa, Banque Populaire, CIH — all have machines that accept foreign Visa and Mastercard. I use a Wise or Revolut card and withdraw in dirhams; both offer good exchange rates with low fees compared to high-street bank cards. Check your bank’s foreign transaction charges before you go, as these vary considerably.

Exchanging Cash

This is my prefered method of exchanging money, arrive with a large supply of high denomination bills in your own currency (ideally pounds, euro or dollars) and exchange as you need to.  Obviously you need to be careful, a money belt worn around your waist is the best place to keep your cash, cards & passport.  Remember to carry this with you at all times, do not leave it in your hotel, if you lose your cash, cards or passport then you have a big problem!

I also carry a wallet where a put enough Dirhams for the day and I pay with my wallet when I buy something, rumaging around in your money belt on the street does draw unneccessary attention to it, the whole point of wearing it around your waist is that it is inconspicuous!

Money Exchange offices are found in all cities and at major entry points. Exchange rates are regulated, but they do vary a little, it is worth asking at your accomodation, where the best places are; but avoid asking on the street as you are oftern directed to informal money changers who work on the black market— the rate may seem attractive but the risk of fraud is real. Airport exchange desks are convenient but rarely offer the best rates. Hotels will exchange cash but usually at a poor rate.

The Dirham is Non-Convertible

You cannot take dirhams out of Morocco in any significant quantity, and you cannot buy them in the UK.

Therefore as to you get towards the end of your trip think carefully about how much you change into Dirhams.  In theory you can convert any remaining dirhams back to sterling before departure (keep receipts from your original exchange — these may be required). In practice, the rate is not great and I usually spend them on a souvenir or a good meal!

Tipping

Tipping is expected and genuinely important — wages in the tourism sector are low, and tips form a significant part of many workers’ income. As a rough guide: guides 100–200 MAD per day depending on quality, restaurant service 10–15%, riad staff 20–50 MAD per day of your stay, hammam attendants 20–30 MAD, taxi drivers round up the fare. Always carry small notes — 50 and 20 MAD — for this purpose.

Costs

Morocco can be done very cheaply or very expensively, depending entirely on how you choose to travel.

When I was younger, I did tend to travel as cheaply as possible, but over the years I have realised that your money goes a lot furthur so spending a little more means that you can afford things that you can’t at home, plus there are some great Riads in Morocco at prices far lower than budget hotels at home.  Places like booking.com are great places to find a good deal.

To give you an idea of costs, here are some typical figures,  they are approximate and will vary by city and season — Marrakesh tends to be pricier than Fez or Meknes, and the tourist-facing economy charges more than the local one.

Accommodation

• Budget guesthouse or hostel: 150–300 MAD per night
• Mid-range riad: 400–900 MAD per night
• Good riad with breakfast included: 700–1,200 MAD per night
• Luxury riad or international hotel: 1,500 MAD upwards

Food

• Street food lunch (harira, sandwich, msemen): 20–50 MAD
• Local restaurant set lunch (three courses): 80–150 MAD
• Mid-range restaurant dinner: 150–300 MAD
• Smart restaurant or riad dinner: 300–600 MAD

Transport

• Petit taxi within a city: 20–50 MAD (always insist on the meter or agree a fare first)
• Grand taxi between cities: 50–150 MAD per seat, depending on distance
• CTM long-distance bus: 80–200 MAD
• ONCF train (e.g. Casablanca to Fez): 100–160 MAD in second class

A comfortable independent trip — mid-range riad, one good meal a day, occasional taxi — will run to around £60–80 per person per day. You can do it for considerably less; you can also spend considerably more.

Getting Around

Morocco has a reasonably good transport infrastructure and is not difficult to navigate independently, though the experience differs sharply from getting around northern Europe.

Trains

The ONCF rail network is the most comfortable and reliable way to travel between the main cities. The Casablanca–Rabat–Kenitra–Meknes–Fez line is the backbone of the network and runs efficiently. There is also a high-speed line (Al Boraq) connecting Casablanca to Tangier, cutting journey time to around two hours. Book ahead for the Al Boraq, which fills up; ordinary intercity trains are usually fine on the day.

Buses

CTM is the main long-distance bus company and operates comfortable, punctual services between all major cities and many smaller ones. Supratours (affiliated with ONCF) also runs good services. Both can be booked online. Avoid unlabelled private buses for long distances — the price difference rarely justifies the unpredictability.

Taxis

Two types: petit taxis (small, coloured by city, for short in-city journeys) and grand taxis (larger, usually Mercedes, for inter-city travel or longer runs). Petit taxis should use their meters — insist on it, or agree a fare before you get in. Grand taxis operate on a shared basis: you pay for a seat and travel with other passengers going the same way, departing when the car is full. You can buy all seats to depart immediately. They are faster than buses and more flexible; they are not for those who prefer predictability.

Driving

I have driven in Morocco and found it manageable once you adjust to the local style, which is assertive. Roads between major cities are generally good; mountain roads require more care, particularly in winter. Parking in medinas is not relevant — cars cannot enter — but finding secure parking near medina entrances is usually possible at low cost. An international driving permit is technically required but rarely asked for in practice; carry it regardless.

Etiquette and Cultural Considerations

Morocco is a Muslim country with conservative social norms in many areas, and navigating these with respect will significantly improve your experience. Moroccans are, in my experience, genuinely hospitable and welcoming to visitors who show basic courtesy; the friction that some travellers encounter is almost always avoidable.

Dress

In the medinas and traditional areas, dress modestly. This means covered shoulders and knees for both men and women — not because anyone will physically stop you otherwise, but because it is simply respectful, and because you will be treated differently and better if you observe it. On the coast and in beach resorts, standards are more relaxed; use your judgment based on context. Women travelling alone should be particularly attentive to this in conservative areas, where dressing modestly provides a degree of protection from unwanted attention.

Religion

The call to prayer (adhan) occurs five times daily and is part of the fabric of life in Morocco — not a tourist attraction, not a performance, but a genuine act of faith. Mosques are generally closed to non-Muslims, though you can usually glimpse interiors through open doorways and some (notably Casablanca’s Hassan II Mosque) have organised non-Muslim visits. Never enter a mosque without invitation. Remove shoes before entering any religious or traditional space.

Hospitality

The Moroccan tradition of hospitality is genuine and deep. If you are invited for tea — in a home, a riad, a shop — it is not always a commercial transaction. Often it is simply hospitality. Accept graciously. Three glasses of mint tea is the norm; refusing after the first is acceptable but slightly abrupt. When hospitality does shade into a sales encounter — as it sometimes will — a firm but polite ‘no thank you’ is entirely sufficient and need not be awkward.

Bargaining

In the souks and medinas, prices are not fixed and haggling is customary. This is not an adversarial process — or should not be — but a social ritual with its own conventions. Start lower than you intend to pay, be willing to walk away, and keep it good-humoured. Once you have agreed a price, you are honour-bound to buy. Do not haggle unless you intend to purchase. Do not make a low offer as a joke — this is considered disrespectful.

If you are with a guide, be aware that guides often get commission from shop keepers, this will determine which shops he directs you to and will probably mean that you end up paying more for the goods in order to cover his commission.  So if you are interested  in buying any high value pieces it is best to get an idea of how much it should cost,  then visiting the shop alone.

Photography

Always ask before photographing people, particularly women and the elderly. Many people will decline; respect this without question. Photographing religious buildings from outside is generally fine; photographing inside without permission is not. The tanneries and souks are photographed constantly and the subjects are accustomed to it, but acknowledgment and a tip are always appreciated. In the Sahara and among Berber communities, sensitivity to the intrusiveness of cameras is particularly important.

Alcohol

Alcohol is available in Morocco but not ubiquitous. As the vast majority of Moroccans are muslims, and muslims are not supposed to drink, alcohol tends to be frowned on.

In my experience places that sell alcohol are generally quite seedy drinking dens full of exclusively male drinkers, not the convivial pub that you may be used to.  As such I don’t tend to drink in Morocco!

If you do fancy a drink then International hotels, licensed restaurants, and supermarkets in larger cities stock wine and beer; the local wine industry is actually well-developed and some Moroccan wines are genuinely quite good. Medinas and traditional areas tend to have no alcohol whatsoever; do not look for it there, and do not carry open drinks through the streets. In private or in appropriate settings, drinking is unproblematic. In public or in conservative areas, keep it discreet.

Safety and Security

Morocco is, in my experience, a significantly safer country for tourists than its reputation among some travellers suggests. Violent crime against visitors is rare. Petty crime — pickpocketing, scams, opportunistic theft — exists, particularly in the medinas and around tourist sites, and requires the usual urban vigilance. The FCDO currently rates Morocco as a country where normal precautions are required; just be aware that you are alot richer than the average moroccan and you might spend in a day what they would spend in a week, so just be discreet and do not pull out large wads of high denomination fills in the middle of the souk!

Common Scams

The most common annoyance for first-time visitors is not crime but the various forms of soft pressure that operate around the tourist economy.False guides who offer to show you somewhere and then expect payment; ‘helpful’ strangers who lead you to a shop and receive a commission; insisted-upon services (someone ‘helping’ with your bag, a mint sprig at the tannery) for which payment is then expected. None of these are dangerous; alot of these things are down to cultural differences, all of them are manageable with a little foreknowledge and the ability to say ‘no thank you’ calmly and keep walking. 

I think the key is be compassionate, do not get angry, in Morocco there is no social security, these guys have to hussle to earn a living.  But be assertive, if you don’t want a guy off the streets showing you around the tanneries then, say ‘No thank you!’ in a loud voice or better ” Non, merci!” as if you mean it, don’t be too English.  To them ” I’m terribly sorry but I don’t really need a guide”, sounds like a maybe.

Terrorism

Morocco has experienced terrorist incidents in the past, notably the 2011 Marrakesh bombing, and the authorities take the threat seriously. Security presence around major tourist sites, hotels and public spaces is visible. The FCDO advises vigilance in crowded places. Exercise the same awareness you would in any major city. There is no reason to be deterred from visiting Morocco on security grounds; millions of tourists visit without incident every year.

Women Travelling Alone

I think that the key here is to understand the social differences.  In Morocco, as in many muslim countries, men and women tend to lead parallel lives, they do not traditionally socialise together, unless it is within the family.  It is also unusual to see Moroccan women travelling alone, and when you do they are covered up.

 Therefore to see a young western woman, in what might be considered immodest dress, is very interesting for a Moroccan man, especially if the western woman seems eager to talk to them.  They will see that this is a sign that the woman is available.  It must also be said that many Moroccan men see that getting a western wife is a route to a better life

So solo female travel in Morocco requires more preparation than in northern Europe but is entirely feasible. Street harassment — catcalling, persistent attention — is a reality in some areas and cities. Dressing conservatively, wearing sunglasses, walking with purpose, not making extended eye contact with strangers and not interacting with everybody who tries to initiate conversation with you all reduce unwanted attention. Fez’s medina and the smaller imperial cities tend to be more relaxed than Marrakesh in this regard.

So how should you deal with this?  Agressive verbal responces such as f off, generally leads to an agresive response from Moroccan men who do not like to feel disrespected.  A better way seems to be to calmly say ‘ I wish to be alone with my friend / on my own, please respect my wishes.’ As they have been brought up to value respect this seems to work quite well

The riad model of accommodation — gated, private, professionally run — provides a safe space that you can retreat to. Female travellers I know who have visited Morocco solo report generally positive experiences when they go prepared. But they tell me the key is to be assertive, ignore men who try to initiaite conversations on the street and initate conversations with women.

Emergency Numbers

• Police: 19
• Gendarmerie (rural): 177
• Ambulance: 15
• Fire: 15
• Tourist Police (Brigade Touristique): available in Marrakesh, Fez, Agadir and other major tourist cities

Mobile Phones

Morocco has good mobile coverage in all cities and most tourist areas. Coverage in the High Atlas, the Sahara and remote rural areas is patchy to nonexistent. The main networks are Maroc Telecom (IAM), Orange Maroc, and Inwi.

Using Your UK Phone

Since Brexit, UK travellers no longer benefit from automatic roaming arrangements, and using your UK SIM in Morocco can be expensive depending on your provider. Check your provider’s roaming charges before you travel.  

I generally find that the easiest, although generally a bit more expensive than local SIM cards, is the travel eSIM card.  You can buy these at home, downlaod them onto your phone and activiate them as soon as you arrive in the country.  There are even some regional eSIM cards that cover more than one country.

Local SIM Cards

Buying a local SIM is straightforward and cheap, and for a stay of more than a few days I would always recommend it. Maroc Telecom and Orange both sell tourist SIM packages at airports and in their shops in all cities. You will need your passport. A SIM with a reasonable data allowance (5–10GB) typically costs 50–100 MAD. Top-up (recharge) cards are sold everywhere — in tabacs, supermarkets, and small shops. Maroc Telecom has the widest coverage and is my first choice for reliability.

Wi-Fi

Most riads and hotels offer Wi-Fi, of variable quality. It is generally adequate for messaging and email; video calls can be unreliable. Many cafes in the new towns offer free Wi-Fi. In medinas, connectivity is patchier. A local SIM / eSIM with data is a more dependable solution than relying on hotel Wi-Fi for navigation and communication.

Useful Apps

• Apple or Google Maps (download offline maps before you arrive — data in medinas can be slow)
• Wise/Revolut for currency and payments
• WhatsApp (universally used in Morocco for communication)
• ONCF app for train bookings
• CTM app or website for bus bookings

Health

No vaccinations are mandatory for entry to Morocco from the UK, but the NHS and travel medicine clinics recommend being up to date with routine vaccinations, and many travellers choose to be vaccinated against Hepatitis A, Typhoid and Rabies (the last particularly relevant if you plan to spend time in rural areas or with animals).

Food and Water

Tap water in Morocco is technically treated, but I don’t know any travellers who drink the tap water.  All travellers — and most Moroccans — drink bottled water.

Stomach upsets are the most common health complaint and are usually caused by food rather than water: undercooked meat, salads washed in tap water, or food that has sat in heat.

My advise is to eat in busy restaurants with a high turnover of diners, then you can be sure that the food is freshly prepared. Some restaurants, especially in more remote areas, may not have seen another diner in days.  In these places the streetfood is often a better bet than the restaurants.

Generally the key, is use your judgement, if a place looks dirty and unfrequented, it is usually best avoided.  Cooked food, freshly made food, and food you have watched prepared are generally safe. Raw salads, especially in buffets, are the most common culprit.

Pharmacies

Moroccan pharmacies are well-stocked, knowledgeable and easy to find. Pharmacists speak French and often some English. Many medications that require prescription in the UK are available over the counter. If you take regular prescription medication, bring sufficient supply from home, along with a copy of the prescription.  The chance of getting more of the prescription medicine that you take at home is generally low, although there might be a local variation, but do not rely on this.

Travel Insurance

Trvel Insurance is essential.  the real reason for travel insurance is to cover medical evacuation, as this can be very expensive if required.

Check that your policy covers activities you plan to undertake — trekking, riding, desert travel. 

Don’t take lots of uneccessary equipment with you, these days unless you are a professional photographer, the camera on your phone will be perfectly adequate to capture all the photos you need.  all the photos in this guide have been taken on an iphone!

Language

Morocco’s linguistic situation is complex and interesting. The official languages are Modern Standard Arabic and Amazigh (Berber), both used in official contexts and education. But the everyday spoken language is Darija — Moroccan Arabic — which is distinct enough from Gulf or Egyptian Arabic to be essentially its own language. French is widely spoken, particularly in business, administration, and tourism. Spanish is common in the north (Tangier, Tetouan, Al-Hoceima) due to historical ties. English is increasingly spoken in tourist areas and by younger Moroccans.

As a practical matter: French will get you a long way, particularly in cities. A few words of Darija — shukran (thank you), la (no), bslama (goodbye) — will earn disproportionate goodwill. Don’t be put off if you speak no Arabic: the Moroccan tourism industry is experienced at communicating across language barriers.

Accommodation

The riad has become synonymous with Moroccan travel, and with good reason. A riad is a traditional courtyard house — the name comes from the Arabic for garden — converted for use as a guesthouse or boutique hotel. From the street, riads are deliberately unremarkable; step through the door and you find yourself in a private world of tilework, fountains, carved plaster and citrus trees. They vary enormously in quality and price; at their best they are among the finest accommodation experiences in the world.

• Booking tips:
• Always book directly with the riad if possible, or via a reputable booking site.  I do find booking.com very useful, and often cheaper than booking direct.
• Read reviews carefully and look specifically for comments on noise (medinas can be loud until late), hot water reliability, and the helpfulness of staff
• The location within the medina matters considerably — some riads are genuinely difficult to find on foot; ask about the approach before you book
• Breakfast is often included in the rate  and is definately worth having — Moroccan breakfasts of bread, msemen, honey, argan oil, coffee and fresh juice are excellent

A Few Final Things

Thirty years of Morocco have taught me a few things that don’t fit neatly into any category but that I always pass on:

Always have cash. The situation where you need cash and cannot get it — the ATM that won’t accept your card, the guesthouse that takes cash only, the taxi driver who has no change — will arrive. Carry more dirhams than you think you need.

Slow down and relax. Morocco rewards the unhurried. The traveller who is always in a hurry, or on a very tight itinerary misses out on the little things that stick in your mind.

Build slack into your itinerary; be as flexible as possible; let the unexpected happen. Some of my finest Moroccan experiences — a spontaneous invitation to a family wedding, a conversation in a medersa courtyard, a sunset on a rooftop came from being in the right place at the right time and not hurrying to the next place

Be patient with the hustle. The medina economy depends on tourism and the sales pressure reflects that; it is not personal. A calm and friendly refusal is always more effective than irritation. Remember that the person approaching you is probably earning less in a month than you have spent getting to Morocco.

Buy what you love, not what you think you should buy. The best thing I own from Morocco is a pair of sandals I haggled for in a souk in Marrakesh and have worn for fifteen years. The worst things I own from Morocco are the ‘authentic’ items I bought because I felt I ought to. The medinas contain extraordinary craft work of genuine quality; they also contain a great deal of tourist-grade production. Trust your own judgement and when hagglling, maintain perspective, appreciaite that what you are buying is often made by hand, and that the seller has a family to support.  If you pay a little over the odds, then the family will appreciate it.